Looking back in time while going through my Madhya Pradesh photobook, I realised it isn’t the tigers of Bandhavgarh or the beautiful landscape of Kanha that still makes me want to go back. It is actually the lesser-known, Satpura that stands out and makes me wanting for more. Satpura might lack the popularity of resorts and lodges which are swarming with tourists but what it exudes is a silent sophistication that surpasses anything that’s man- made.
Famous amongst the wildlife enthusiasts and photographer, Satpura is least popular in the regular wildlife trails and packages of Madhya Pradesh. People are still unaware of what this park has to offer and usually stick to the ones that are known in the land of tigers. Even though it is easily accessible from Bhopal which is the nearest airport or Itarsi the nearest Train station, not everyone is willing to include it in there safari map.
I have visited all the major national parks in India known for our very own wildlife poster child – Tiger! So thinking of Satpura made me thrilled and I was looking forward to this unknown adventure.
Getting to the Satpura National Park
The dramatic vistas on that summer afternoon drive from Bhopal airport to Reni Pani Jungle Lodge were an excellent foresight into the days to follow. On arrival waiting for us was a delicious lunch at the lodge. Reni Pani Jungle Lodge is perfectly designed wildlife-focused lodge located 30 mins drive from the Madhai gate of Satpura National Park. With very high benchmark for service and quality delivery, your personal butler takes care of you throughout your stay at the lodge. It was a fabulous lodge, with all the necessary luxuries to relax, take in the to the outdoors where deer’s often come grazing to build a curiosity for the wildlife experience.
Safaris at Satpura National Park
Wildlife enthusiasts and avid photographers find Satpura as a blessing. Even today it’s not frequently visited by tourist which makes it quiet, surreal and holds a special status among many conservationists and naturalists across the globe.
Being one of the largest nationals parks in the country it spreads over approx. 1,427 sq km of core forest area, with an additional 794 sq km of buffer zone. Its topography is so different from any other national park that it changes very quickly during any wildlife safari. At some places you see wetlands and open meadows to dense foliage. You drive again for a while and the landscape changes completely to hilly tracts, and to rocky patches known for amazing leopard sightings.
For such a large park, they only allow 15 jeeps at a time making it less crowned. This means a better wildlife experience with no noise, or dust – and definitely no queuing up of jeeps – at any given time unlike other and more famous national parks like Ranthambhore or Bandhavgarh national park,
Night Patrol in Satpura National Park
After having our evening snacks during a nice around the table discussion with our in-house naturalist, we bundled ourselves into the safari jeeps to go for another great adventure.
With 2 safari staff (naturalist/ driver/ spotter) in each we drove off to the buffer zone of Parsapani. With sun beginning to fade, a beautiful dusk had finally settled overhead and we knew that a different wildlife experience awaits us. As we sat in silence, looking for some sign of wildlife we caught fireflies glinting in the dark. Over the next few minutes we heard owls and spotted several hares, nightjars sitting on the sides of the road. And finally followed by a monkey call, there we saw two leopards near a man-made water holes just in time for us to start driving back to the lodge. The night was made even astonishing when we spotted the Rusty spotted cat, world’s smallest wild cat on our way to the lodge.
The twilight hour from 5:30 P.M. to 8 P.M. is an ideal time for sightings. This is the time most of the wild animals and birds start returning to their resting sites. The predators on the other hand comes out of their hideouts to look for their prey. Ideally the best time to spot a leopard or a sloth bear. You just need to watch out for a pair of shining eyes, that may be lurking amongst the thick forest foliage.
Other experiences
There are many experiences one can have Satpura. Apart from morning, afternoon and night safaris, there are canoe safaris to spot many resident and migratory birds. One can also opt for a walking safari or just a boating trip on the Denwa.
Dhupgarh located inside the reserve is the highest peak of Madhya Pradesh (1351m). During the monsoon season, The waterfalls created due to numerous deep gorges by rains are a highlight. Bee Fall and Dutchess Fall are in full force at this time of the year and one must not miss it if visiting during the rainy season.. At a lot of places in the reserve you can also see ancient rock paintings, depicting the fauna from the ancient times.
How to Reach Satpura National Park
Satpura is approximately at a distance of 180 kms from the city of Bhopal which is well connected by air and train to the many cities of the country.
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